Dermapen Microneedling

What is Dermapen and how does it work?

Dermapen is a pen-shaped, motor-driven microneedling device. A sterile, single-use cartridge holding fine needles moves vertically at high frequency and opens thousands of microscopic channels in the upper layers of the skin. Each channel is a controlled micro-injury — small enough to close quickly, but enough to signal the skin that repair is needed.

That signal is the point of the treatment. The wound-healing cascade that follows brings growth factors to the area and stimulates fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin. Over the weeks after a session, new collagen is laid down and the skin’s texture and firmness gradually change. The process is known as collagen induction therapy.

Two settings determine what a session actually does:

• Needle depth. Shallow settings target surface texture, enlarged pores and dullness. Deeper settings are chosen for scarring and stretch marks. Depth is reduced around the delicate skin of the eye area and the forehead, and increased on thicker skin such as the cheeks.
• Needle speed and pass count. These control how densely the channels are placed and how much of a response is created in one session.

Because the channels stay open briefly, the treatment is often combined with topical products applied during or straight after the passes — hyaluronic acid, peptide or vitamin-based serums are common choices. What is applied depends on the skin assessment, not on a fixed protocol.

Which concerns is it used for?

Acne scarring. Depressed, rolling and boxcar scars respond to the collagen laid down beneath them. This is one of the most established uses of microneedling, and it is a course of sessions rather than a single treatment.

Fine lines and loss of firmness. Around the eyes, on the upper lip and across the cheeks, gradual collagen stimulation can soften fine surface lines. Deeper folds and pronounced sagging are structural and are assessed separately.

Enlarged pores and uneven texture. Surface irregularity and rough texture are usually treated at shallower depths, often as part of a maintenance routine.

Stretch marks. On the abdomen, thighs, upper arms and chest, microneedling is used to work on the texture of the marks. Older, white stretch marks respond more slowly than newer ones.

Uneven tone and dullness. Improved turnover and better absorption of topical products can make the skin look brighter over a course. In pigmentation problems, the cause must be identified first — some types of pigmentation can worsen with the wrong approach.

The face is the most common area, but the neck, décolleté, back of the hands and the body areas mentioned above are all treatable.

How does a session progress?

Assessment. Skin type, current concerns, past procedures, medication and any tendency to scar or pigment are reviewed. Needle depth, the number of sessions and the interval between them are planned from this. If the skin is not suitable at that moment — active breakout, recent sun exposure, ongoing medication — the session is postponed.

Cleansing. The area is cleansed and disinfected. Make-up, sunscreen and sebum would otherwise be pushed into open channels.

Topical anaesthetic. A numbing cream is applied and left for roughly 20–30 minutes, then removed completely before the device is used. Most people describe the passes afterwards as a vibration with mild scratching rather than pain.

The passes. The device is moved across the area in several directions in a grid pattern so coverage is even. A serum may be applied during the passes. Treating the full face typically takes 20–30 minutes; with preparation time, allow around an hour in total.

Immediately after. The skin looks flushed, similar to mild sunburn, and feels warm and tight. A soothing, calming product and sun protection are applied. The redness usually settles within one to three days.

Who is it not suitable for?

Microneedling breaks the skin barrier, so there are situations where it should not be performed:

• Active skin infection in the area — including cold sores, impetigo and fungal infection
• Active, inflamed or cystic acne in the treatment area
• Current or recent isotretinoin use; a waiting period is required
• A history of keloid or hypertrophic scarring
• Bleeding disorders or anticoagulant therapy
• Recent radiotherapy to the area, or an unhealed wound
• Pregnancy and breastfeeding
• Moles, warts or any lesion under investigation — these areas are worked around
• Freshly tanned or sunburnt skin

When do results become visible?

The first visible change is not the result. In the days after a session the skin often looks brighter and feels smoother, largely because of surface renewal and hydration — this is temporary.

Collagen remodelling takes considerably longer. New collagen continues to form for weeks after each session, so the texture change usually becomes noticeable from around the fourth to sixth week and keeps developing after the course is finished. Sessions are generally spaced four weeks apart to allow the skin to complete each cycle before the next.

The number of sessions depends on what is being treated. Surface texture and dullness need fewer; acne scarring and stretch marks need a longer course. Results are not permanent — skin continues to age, and maintenance sessions are usually planned once or twice a year.

Use alongside other treatments

Microneedling is often planned as part of a wider routine rather than on its own. Mesotherapy works on hydration and skin quality from a different angle and can be alternated with it. Where firmness is the main concern, HIFU targets deeper layers and addresses something microneedling does not reach.

Sequencing matters. Injectable treatments and microneedling are not performed in the same session, and chemical peels or laser work need an interval either side. Your plan is set out at the assessment so the intervals work together rather than against each other.

Frequently asked questions